Summary

An exploration of the south-west corner of this enigmatic island, climbing to the highest point on the west side of French Is: history, wildflowers in season, and much more!

Description

Ille de Francaise: that low-lying land across the channel, mysterious because of no car access, leaving bicycles and feet. Yet French Island is a world of its own, rich in wildife and flora.
French Island was discovered in 1800 by Captain Hamelin in command of Le Naturaliste, part of a scientific expediton led by Captain Nicholas Baudin. On French charts, the island appeared as Ille de Francais, and Victoria as Terre Napoleon. Expeditions led by George Bass, Lieuts. James Grant and John Murray explored Westernport in 1802.
Being at war at the time, French interest never really developed, though Captain Dumont D'Urville was in Westernport in late 1826. This prompted the hurried setting up of a convict colony at nearby Corinella, but the French presence faded away, the colony was badly sited, and Corinella was abandoned in 1828.
Following the settlement of Melbourne in 1835, first attempts at settling French Island were in the 1840s, but dense scrub, lack of good water sources, and lack of transport were major obstacles. Salt harvesting was attempted on both the north and south coasts from the 1860s to 1890s.
The depression of the 1890s prompted the setting up of six 'Village Settlements'. For the reasons given, these were failures, but bequeathed the site of Fairhaven, the pier and town grid that never was at Tankerton, and Perserverance primary school, which survived into the 21st century.
A prison was set up on the east side of the island in 1917, which closed in 1975 and is now in private hands. French Island became an important refuge for native species such as koalas. This led to establisment of the 8300 ha French Island State Park in the 1970s. The island was also once proposed as a site for a nuclear power station.
The 17,110 ha island is linked to the mainland via the ferry from Stony Point, which connects to Metro rail services to Frankston. Being close to the mainland, most of French Island has good internet coverage.
French Island has a current population of about 110 people, but being spread thin, it's sometimes possible not to see a soul all day after leaving the ferry. The island has one public telephone, mail box and general store, all located at Tankerton.
French Island is the largest inhabited island in Victoria not to be incorporated. It is not part of any municipality. Residents have no council to pay rates to. Maintenance of roads and public facilities, which have improved in recent years, are carried out by the Dept. of Sustainability & Environment, and Parks Victoria.
That said, the 'main drag' east from Tankerton is gravel; most other tracks are sand. Being low-lying, French Island can be very wet, mosquitos are legion, as are march flies and snakes. The further one progresses from the ferry terminal, the more remote; if something goes wrong, you're very much on your own.
Offsetting that is the experience of walking where few others have, a profusion of wildflowers, and Quiet like nowhere else.

8004 Views

Points of Interest

1. Tankerton Jetty

This is French Island's lifeline to the wider world. Most supplies come in via ferry, as do residents and tourists alike. But it's just the start of this adventure. Note the tram tracks.

2. Coast Road

This is the way back later. If on two wheels, take care of the plank bridge! For walkers it's no problem, but is showing its age. The tiny Tankerton Creek has never flooded sufficient to wash it out.

3. Tankerton reserve

This is the only oval on the island. French Island often had problems finding enough players to field a football team. Facilities are basic, and no drinking water.

4. Tankerton general store

Post office, telephone, general store, licensed premises, picnic area, civilised toilets - this is it. Stock up on food and drink, this is the only place that has them.

5. The main drag

This is the island's main road for what little traffic there is. The road distance to McLeod Prison is 22 km, a little far to walk. This may be the only traffic you'll see all day.

6. Clump Road

Clump Road has sections of sand, ballast, and washaways. It's also where you may start to see some of the island's wildlife.

7. The Pinnacles

At 66 m, the highest point on the west side of the island. Sweeping views of a different world. The navigation marker was erected in the 1970s. Both approaches are steep.

8. Descending track

The south-west track would be steep and slippery in wet conditions, but it leads to one of the most beautiful (and remote) sections of this track.Listen for the pobbledonk frogs at the bottom.

9. The Punt

The second wetland on this track. But to get here is to walk never-ending aisles of exhuberant wildflowers beside narrow lanes of sandy track, seeming miles from anywhere.

10. Back on the Coast Road

The coast road is actually some way from the beach, which in this area is mud flats and mangroves. Now heading south with destination coming within reach.

11. Farm wayside stop

There are numerous derelict farms on French Island, but some on the coast road are still operating. Long established cypresses provide a cool rest spot beside the road on a warm day.

12. Ferry

Fifteen minutes to put your feet up and return to the rest of the world. The ferry can be booked online. Ferry services operate from 7.30 am to 7.45 pm. Definitely don't miss the last one!

Features

Picnic spot

Public toilets

Historical interest

Local treasures

Nature trail

Lake, creek, river